Founded in 1948 in New York by Beth and Herbert Levine, Herbert Levine is defined by sculptural sophistication, cinematic allure, and surreal elegance. Under the creative direction of Trevor Houston and guided by Beth’s visionary legacy, the house focuses on shaping a distinctive footwear wardrobe that fuses modern glamour with refined craftsmanship and intelligent design.
1948
Beth and Herbert Levine found Herbert Levine in New York City. From the very
beginning, Beth serves as the brand’s creative engine while Herbert drives the
business forward. Together, they establish a label instantly recognized for its
daring innovation and refined wit.
1949
The couple purchases their first factory on the tenth floor of 31 West 31st
Street in the heart of Manhattan, where they produce 400 pairs of shoes per
week. Soon after, they add a second space in the Butterick Building, which
becomes a hub for experimentation and artisanal excellence.
The debut collection launches in February with a single design—Femme Fatale—featuring
a V-cut closed toe and a delicate wraparound ankle strap. It becomes the
brand’s first bestseller.
Herbert Levine advertising illustrated by Saul Steinberg, 1953.
1950s
By the mid-1950s, Herbert Levine ranks as the sixth-largest footwear manufacturer in the United States. The brand partners with top retailers such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, and Neiman Marcus, and becomes the first American shoe label carried by Harrods in London and Galeries Lafayette in Paris.
Beth creates some of her most iconic silhouettes during this decade, including the Cyrano, Gigi Stocking, Kabuki, Under Construction, Jordan Heel, On A Roll, Peek-A-Boo boot, and the patented Spring-o-Lator mule. Innovation drives the brand’s collections, marked by technical ingenuity and cutting-edge materials like nylon and paper. In 1959, at the request of Diana Vreeland, Beth designs the Aladdin’s Lamp—a low-heeled, jewel-tipped shoe with an upturned point that is both open and closed.
The Levines immerse themselves in the world of modern and contemporary art. They collect works by Franz Kline, Philip Pearlstein, Milton Avery, and Paul Signac, and often travel to France to acquire Picasso ceramics and other artistic treasures.
They commission portraits from artists like Andy Warhol and incorporate avant-garde art into their advertisements, using Saul Steinberg’s illustrations and Jean Dubuffet’s surrealist motifs. Their personal collection includes antique miniatures, rare ballet memorabilia, and fashion curiosities.
Herbert Levine shoes are captured by the world’s leading photographers—Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, Helmut Newton, Norman Parkinson, Guy Bourdin, and David Bailey among them.
The Gigi Stocking boot worn by Dorian Leigh, photo by Gjon Mili in Life magazine, 1950.
1954
In 1954, the brand receives the prestigious Neiman Marcus Award. A few years later, Beth responds to a dare from Stanley Marcus by designing the No-Shoe—a radical silhouette composed only of a sole, secured to the foot with adhesive. The design challenges the very definition of what a shoe can be.
Herbert Levine promotional video for the No Shoe shoe, 1958.
1960s
The cultural energy of the 1960s—marked by pop art, space exploration, and the rise of feminism—inspires Beth to create fantastical, imaginative designs that transform Herbert Levine from a fashion label into a force at the intersection of art, culture, and innovation.
She introduces convertible shoes with removable components, fully bejeweled boots and pumps (like the Theater Boots and Dorothy Pumps), and open-toe sandals lined with AstroTurf (Barefoot in the Grass). She explores postwar modernism, orientalist fantasy, space-age optimism, and pop-art playfulness—infusing it all with a distinctly American sensibility. Experimenting with new forms and materials becomes a hallmark of her design language, securing her status as the most influential shoe designer of the 20th century.
The Levines become known for hand-delivering their signature red boxes in a refined, grey right-hand-drive Rolls Royce often chauffeuring clients to and from their factory in style.
The brand becomes a favorite among First Ladies, earning Beth the title “The First Lady of Shoes.” She designs for Mamie Eisenhower, Jackie Kennedy, Lady Bird Johnson, and Patricia Nixon.
Hollywood and music legends also embrace the brand: Marilyn Monroe, Marlene Dietrich, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Cher, Nancy Sinatra, Barbara Streisand, and Shirley MacLaine are among the many icons who wear Herbert Levine.
The Herbert Levine delivery Rolls Royce.
1961
Beth introduces the Cinderella—the first fully invisible shoe—crafted from transparent vinyl and featuring a plexiglass heel seamlessly attached with clear adhesive, eliminating visible screws.
1962–1963
Herbert Levine redefines the boot as a powerful fashion statement rather than functional outerwear. In 1962, she patents the Stocking Boot—a surreal, body-conscious hybrid of pantyhose and stiletto that hugs the leg like a second skin.
1965
Nancy Sinatra wears Herbert Levine boots in promotional images for These Boots Are Made for Walkin’, launching the style into mainstream culture.
In response to growing demand, Saks Fifth Avenue opens Beth’s Bootery—a dedicated section spotlighting her designs.
Beth wins both the Cotton Fashion Award and the coveted Coty Award, the fashion industry’s highest honor.
